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PUBLIC MARKET
VABOW
PUBLIC MARKET
Marketing Package
Presented by:
Lynda Boyer
Ben Gary
CB Richard Ellis
1840 Century Park East, Suite 700
Los Angeles, California 90067
310.550.3579
lynda.bover@cbre.com
January, 2008
All Good,
All Local:
Oxbow Public Market LLC, a
company located in the San
Francisco Bay Area, specializes in
designing, building, leasing, and
managing artisan food and wine
public markets. Recent projects
include project management
and leasing of the Ferry Building
Marketplace in San Francisco,
which serves 70,000 visitors
per week, and development of
the new Oxbow Public Market,
our 40,000 sf flagship concept,
in Napa, CA, which opened in
December of 2007.
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Key Elements
Great owner -operated local specialty food and wine retailers, growers,
producers, and unique restaurants, all being served by a large common area
within a dynamic public space. Like the original Farmer's Market on Fairfax
Avenue in Los Angeles, the Ferry Building Marketplace in San Francisco, or
Pike Place Market in Seattle, an Oxbow Public Market will provide residents
and visitors with a one -stop shop for best -in -class local food, drink, and
dining.
Local merchants offer a broad range of organic products and services
not typically found in conventional or natural foods supermarkets and
shopping centers. Consumers have the opportunity to buy directly from
"the source" and therefore have the advantage of higher quality and fresher,
cleaner products, knowledgeable experienced service personnel, and more
affordable values. Specifically, Oxbow Public Markets allow increasingly
discriminating consumers to buy direct from local, high -quality producers
and growers on a seven day -a -week basis.
Opposite: A bushel of sweet bell
peppers - typical of the summer
offerings found at an Oxbow Public
Market farmstand showcasing the
best local artisan producers.
Top: Michael Mondavi's Folio is one
of 22 vendors currently operating
at the new Oxbow Public Market in
Napa, CA.
The Oxbow
Concept:
Great Vendors,
Great Space,
Great Location
• building
relationships with
local artisans who
grow or produce the
food.
• successfully guiding
these producers into
a competitive retail
environment
• marketing
the concept to
strategically compete
with successful
supermarkets
• exploiting the
demand for foods
found only at local
farmers' markets
• making the
entire experience
convenient for the
customer
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Oxbow Public Market LLC is looking for suitable prime real estate to cre-
ate a national network of Oxbow Public Markets. Ideally, OPM LLC will be
able to identify existing, early stage projects that would benefit from the
inclusion of a public market. OPM LLC would then negotiate a long-term
master lease with the local developer and sublease the space to a variety
of artisan food tenants and quick casual cafes. Once the public market
is opened, OPM LLC would manage the operations of the market going
forward. OPM LLC brings the expertise to implement the local serving con-
cept, while creating a strong profitable partnerships with an experienced
development team. Public Markets in general and Oxbow in particular can
drive asset values for adjacent real estate and we are willing to work with
other local developers to ensure remarkable and sustainable real estate
investments. The specific location and opportunity will dictate the terms of
an agreement.
Opportunity &
Criteria:
Looking for a
few good sites.
_-r4ow
Opposite: Paniculata Hydrangeas
for sale at the San Francisco
Farmer's Market.
Top: A view of the Central Hall at
the new Oxbow Public Market in
Napa, CA.
Right: The Olive Press at Oxbow
Public Market. Each vendor has
seperate electrical, plumbing, and
telephone connections.
Criteria
• Min 20, 000 sf
Max 50,000 sf
• Access to
substantial private
or public parking
• Easily accessible
by foot
• Minimum trade
area of +500,000
• The city should
not have an existing
public market
• Stores like Whole
Foods and Trader
Joe's should be
already present
• High quality
restaurants and
specialty food
merchancts are
already an important
part of the
community
• Proximity to a
highly regarded
university
• Water orientation
(e.g. along a bay,
river, lake, or canal)
• Close to
downtown and
public transportation
Almost every city with a population of greater than 500,000 is a prime can-
didate for a significant public market. Oxbow Public Market LLC plans to fill
the present void.
In addition to San Francisco and Napa, many cities in the U.S. already have
wonderful public markets. Examples include:
Seattle — Pike Place Market
Boston — Faneuil Hall
Philadelphia — Reading Market
Baltimore — Lexington Market
Minneapolis — Lyndale Market
Organic growers, farmers' markets, and small exurban food producers now
comprise the fastest growing sector of the U.S. food economy. This con-
sumer interest in artisanal local products is expanding to many associated
categories as a reaction to mass production and a lack of connection to
producers. Coverage of these trends is evident in local and national press
outlets as well as recent best-selling books.
Trends &
Timing:
Everyone loves
a Public Market.
Opposite: A reprint from the
September 2005 Bon Appetit
showcasing Taylor's Refresher - an
Oxbow Public Market favorite.
Top: Fresh Dungeness Crab - a Bay
Area favorite - is typical of the local
food offers available at an Oxbow
Public Market. Right: The pavillion
under construction which will house
the Oxbow Wine Merchant & Wine
Bar in Napa.
Press:
• Time magazine
(March 12, 2007)
cover story: "Forget
Organic, Eat Local",
and postulates that
"local" food is going
mainstream.
• "The Omnivore's
Dilemma" by Michael
Pollan has been a ma-
jor best seller since
publication in 2006.
It provocatively asks,
"What shall we have
for dinner?" and high-
lights the adventures
of local food.
• "Animal, Vegetable,
Miracle" by Barbara
Kingsolver is recently
published, provides
another exploration
of eating local health-
ful foods.
• "Kitchen Literacy:
How We Lost Knowl-
edge of Where Food
Comes from and Why
We Need to Get It
Back" by Ann Vileisis
is a well -researched
treatise that will give
those interested in
local and organic
foods and American
culinary culture plenty
to chew on.
CALIFORNIA WINE COUNTRY I NAPA VALLEY
Napa's Oxbow Public Market redefines shopping
A brave new mix: daily farmers market plus artisanal goodies and wine.
By Russ Parsons
Los Angeles Times Staff Writer
December 12, 2007
Napa, Calif.
You say you want to know more about where
your food comes from and how it is prepared?
At Napa's new Oxbow Public Market that opens
this weekend, the butcher and the baker will do
their work behind windows that will allow you
to observe almost every step of the preparation.
And the wine will be fermented in barrels you
can reach out and touch.
The brainchild of Steve Carlin, who started
his career by building the pioneering chain of
upscale food markets Oakville Grocery and then
supervised the development of the wildly popular
Ferry Building Marketplace in San Francisco,
the Oxbow market aims to do nothing less
than redefine fine food shopping in the United
States.
Along the way, Carlin hopes to change the lives
of the artisans who create the foods, and even
the town of Napa itself. And maybe someday in
the not -too -distant future, bring the concept to
a city near you.
Big dreams, to be sure. But take a walk with
Carlin around the stunning modern building and
you begin to think he might actually be able to
pull it off.
Consider some of the folks he's gotten involved.
The butcher shop will be run by the Bay Area
charcuterie stars of the Fatted Calf. The bread
baking will be done by St. Helena's beloved Model
Bakery. And the winery will be run by Michael
Mondavi.
Though construction will be completed this week
and about half of the tenants will be open, it
will be early spring before the market is fully
operational.
The $11-million structure rises on the banks of the
Napa River, looking like some postmodern barn,
all metal roof and struts and light -filled inside.
Along one exterior wall are 10 small (12- by 6-
foot) "farm stands" that will be occupied by local
growers on both long-term and short-term leases
-- like a seven -day -a -week farmers market with a
rotating cast of characters.
The interior of the main building is divided into
18 stalls, each from 250 to 400 square feet. This
is where you'll find Mondavi's Folio Enoteca and
Winery, which will initially sell only wines made
locally and eventually only wines made at the
market, as well as the Olive Press of Sonoma,
which will offer six locally produced oils you can
tap from giant metal cans, just like in Italy.
There will be Five Dot Ranch's sustainably raised
California beef; the Oxbow Cheese Shop, run by
Kate Arding, who helped start Cowgirl Creamery;
Whole Spice, a direct importer of dried herbs and
spices; and Tillerman Tea, which finds and imports
its own specialty teas. Carlin is negotiating a lease
with a fishmonger, who will specialize in locally
caught seafood.
There will also be a rotisserie cooker, a Venezuelan
arepa stand, a bookstore, a culinary antiques
collection, a store selling plates and linens, a
separate, general wine shop, and an ice cream
shop. A restaurant, a coffee bar and an oyster bar
are still under negotiation.
In separate buildings adjacent to the main
market will be the Fatted Calf's full -service
butcher shop, Model Bakery and a third outlet
of St. Helena's ever -popular hamburger stand
Taylor's Automatic Refresher.
The farmers market stands will be rented not
just to professional farmers, but also to locals
who might grow fruit or vegetables in their
backyards. "Maybe he's got excess Meyer lemons
one day out of the year, we'll try to work him
in," says Carlin. "I see kids coming down here
and selling stuff from their parents' gardens.
It's just one more way to build community."
At one time, this kind of public market set-
up was the norm, but most were driven out
of business by the growth of supermarkets.
Today, the few that survive are again thriving,
treasured by the communities they serve.
The goal, Carlin says, is building another great
market -- along the lines of the Ferry Building,
Seattle's Pike Place and Vancouver's Granville
Island -- but on a more compact scale that is
more easily replicable.
"There have been lots of questions about
whether a developer could start a real public
market," Carlin says. "Usually these kinds
of places just develop on their own. But the
thing that will make this work is that we've
never varied from the concept of sticking with
artisanal producers, people who always put the
product first."
One of those is the Fatted Calf, which until
now has been operating at the extreme low
economic end of the artisanal scale. Though
its charcuterie products are considered among
the best in the nation, it's been making them
at a leased kitchen in San Francisco and selling
them mostly out of the back of a truck at three
Bay Area farmers markets.
Taylor Boetticher, who owns the business with
his wife, Toponia Miller, and partner Chuck
Traugott, says that not only are they moving
all of their production facilities to the Oxbow
market and opening a retail outlet there, but
they've moved their families to the area as well.
"This is a really big step for us," he says, "probably
the biggest we're ever going to take. But when we
talked to Steve, the whole market really seemed
like a good idea. We really like the whole philosophy
he used in putting the tenants together.
"And being part of a big marketplace is really
appealing, especially since we know so many of
the other people going in. They're a lot of small
local companies just like us. It's not like he's
building some strip mall where there's nothing but
satellite versions of big chains going in."
Carlin is a fountain of big ideas, and he has gotten
to use most of them in building the Oxbow Public
Market. From moment to moment he can shift
from hard-core food fan carrying on about the
finer points of his favorite artisanal producers,
to urban planner talking about how the specific
streetscape of his favorite corner in Berkeley
influences the retail environment.
Then he puts on his marketer hat and discusses
the tricky art of achieving the perfect balance
of tenants, of prepared food and ingredient
offerings, and of tourists and locals for customers.
Interspersed might be an in-depth discussion
of the building of flood walls and high-tech
construction.
Carlin's expertise is hard-won. His career in food
started in 1980 when he took a job building the
wine department at Joseph Phelps' new Oakville
Grocery in the heart of Napa Valley. When he left
the company 20 years later, he was half -owner of
a five -store chain that was grossing $20 million a
year.
After taking a year off to live in Tuscany, he
became project manager for San Francisco's
Ferry Building, and among his responsibilities was
overseeing the start-up and development of the
market, including the recruitment of the original
tenants.
One of the things he learned along the way is how
difficult the transition can be from creating an
artisanal product to running a retail business. But
he's almost evangelical about its necessity.
"Right now, the way the system is set up, retailers
and middlemen make all the money, and that's
what we're trying to change," Carlin says. "To do
that, we have to work at teaching these producers
a new trade and that is retail.
"One of the most important things we have to do
is teach our merchants how to make money. These
are all small-business men, and a lot of them
don't make much money yet. These are not your
typical AAA credit tenants. But these are people
who are fully committed to their products."
And if these small producers can't make enough
money to stay in business, they'll go away. The
results, Carlin says, would be disastrous for us
all.
"I really believe that if we don't create a place
for these producers and if we don't help them
create their brands, then those brands will go
away and our food supply will be more and more
homogenized and bland."
There certainly is little danger of blandness
at Oxbow. Boetticher has all sorts of meaty
visions dancing in his head -- becoming a full -
service butcher will allow him to deal more with
individual ranchers who raise high -quality animals
but prefer to deal in whole carcasses rather than
just cryovac-ed, pre -portioned cuts.
This will let him do such things as offering whole
suckling pigs already marinated and ready for
roasting. And he's also developing a line of house -
made sauerkraut and pickles to accompany the
sausages and pates.
That's downright tame compared to another
producer, Neal Gottlieb of Three Twins Organic
Ice Cream. An eco-conscious guy, he's putting in
a human -powered milkshake maker (driven by
pedaling a bicycle).
And he's dreaming of a $3,333 ice cream sundae,
made from reduced syrups of Chateau d'Yquem
and vintage Port. Seemingly spontaneously, he
begins talking about topping even that with a
$60,000 sundae that will be made from the snow
atop Mt. Kilimanjaro. "If you buy it, I'll take you
there myself and bring along a hand -cranked ice
cream maker."
Part of the excitement that is building around
the market is due to the realization that it just
could be the last missing piece in the puzzle that
will turn around the town of Napa.
Until fairly recently, the city of Napa, which has
a population of about 75,000, had been regarded
as a blue-collar enclave almost totally separate
from the wine country that shares its name. It
was where the folks "up valley" came to buy tires
but didn't linger any longer than necessary.
That started to change five years ago with the
opening of Copia, the "American Center for
Wine, Food and the Arts," largely funded by
Robert Mondavi. But that project has never really
seemed to find its footing and even now is in the
midst of another reinvention.
Still, the area has all the earmarks of a great
neighborhood for a market. Copia, which is still
something of a draw with its wine and food
education programs, is next door, sharing a
parking lot. Across the street is the terminal for
the Napa Valley Wine Train, and two new luxury
hotel complexes -- a Ritz -Carlton and a Westin
-- are being built within a five-minute walk.
Finally, Napa, which already boasts several very
good restaurants in its historic downtown area,
may have built the critical mass necessary to
become part of the Napa Valley tourist circuit.
"Ten years from now, this whole area will be
different," Carlin says. "That's what markets
do in cities. They are magnets that draw people
in.,,
That said, Carlin makes it clear that Oxbow is
not just another stop for culinary tourists -- a
criticism that has sometimes been leveled at the
Ferry Building. 'To be a successful public market,
you have to have a mix of locals and tourists,"
Carlin says. "You need them both. But I'd say the
long-term success of this market will depend on
whether we can get support from the people of
Napa."
What works for Napa might well work for other
cities too. Carlin is already planning a similar
market in Santa Rosa and is in negotiations in
Sacramento and San Jose as well as Portland,
Ore., and Bellevue, Wash. And he's exploring
the possibilities in other areas, including
Southern California.
"This market is not a business deal, it's a busi
ness model," Carlin says. "The way I see this
market is that it's a conduit between growers
and customers and that's something that will
work in lots of different places.
"What Oxbow is about is creating markets in cit-
ies that already have an agricultural backdrop
and that already have an artisanal food scene.
What we want to do is pull all of those producers
together with people who care about food and
are willing to support them.
"I am positive that knowing where our food
comes from is going to become much more im-
portant over the next few years. I'm convinced
that the hardest challenge we face with these
markets is not building demand, it's building sup-
ply.
"We're at the beginning of a movement, and the
communities we're talking to get that."
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Frequent Questions:
1. What is an Oxbow Public Market?
An Oxbow Public Market is a specialty food retail mar-
ketplace concept, launching in a number of major U.S.
cities over the next several years. It allows knowledge-
able consumers to buy direct from local, high -quality
sustainable producers and growers on a seven day -a -
week basis.
2. What does an Oxbow Public Market sell?
Oxbow Public Market does not actually sell a product.
Its vendors sell products and each of them has been
selected for the notoriety of their local products. Oxbow
"manufactures" a remarkable public gathering place
where the community engages and enjoys an authentic
daily shopping experience.
3. Is it like the Ferry Building in San Francisco and
other public markets?
Yes. An Oxbow Public Market will be a fun place to shop,
where local merchants offer a broad range of products
not typically found in conventional supermarkets. Con-
sumers buy directly from the source, for higher quality
products, with knowledgeable service, and more afford-
able prices.
4. Will it have a Farmer's Market?
Yes. An Oxbow Public Market will feature a number of
"farmstands" as part of the central Market Hall theme.
This provides Oxbow customers with a "farmers' mar-
ket" every day of the year, offering the output of local
farms and artisan purveyors. Owner -operated farm -
stands will sell the freshest local produce with attention
to seasonal, sustainable and organic products. Custom-
ers who "Buy Fresh/Buy Local" will find these vendors
a convenient, pleasurable and reliable source for their
daily needs.
5. How do individual tenants benefit from this busi-
ness model?
Most Oxbow Public Market vendors are dedicated arti-
sans but small, owner operated businesses. In order to
become vital, exciting brands on their own, they must
grow their revenue base and increase profitability. With-
in the public market setting they have the opportunity
to become household names through their association
with other high quality tenants and much higher traffic
counts than they would experience on their own. By
incubating new concepts, Oxbow will establish its repu-
tation as a marketing force for high quality local food
and wine producers.
6. How will local developer/partners benefit from an
association with Oxbow Public Markets?
The inclusion of a 50,000 to 60,000 sf public market in a
project will drive values for the core asset and surround-
ing properties. Oxbow offers a lifestyle experience that
is simple to understand but very difficult to create. That
expertise will provide a series of benefits for the developer
and to owners of surrounding parcels.
7. How is this different from Whole Foods?
Whole Foods is the world's largest retailer of natural and
organicfoods. But it is a supermarket— not a collaboration
of local artisanal producers. While the spirit and mission
of the two companies are similar, Oxbow focuses on only
local producers and on creating the community's central
gathering place for artisan foods. Whole Foods focuses
on selling natural healthy foods to a broad audience. Ox-
bow is a place where customers experience an authentic
marketplace environment, which historically has existed in
great cities throughout world.
8. Who is the competition?
Our competitors range from high quality supermarkets
such as Whole Foods (and those now trying to emulate
Whole Foods), to local farmers' markets, which are part-
time operations. We compete primarily with the conve-
nience of supermarkets, and must convince Americans
to shop with local merchants on a regular basis. By op-
erating seven days a week, providing significant variety,
and offering services and organic products not available
elsewhere, we expect to attract a wide variety of qual-
ity -oriented farmer's market customers on a seven day a
week basis.
9. What are the challenges of an Oxbow Public Mar-
ket?
Because the merchants in an Oxbow Public Market are
owner -operated and products must be sourced within
close proximity to the market, the produce offered will be
very seasonal. There will likely be inexperienced retailers.
Customers will not find fresh strawberries in the winter nor
leaf lettuce during the hot days of summer, so creative
menu planning will be emphasized and communicated
through the merchants. Our customers will have to be
educated about food sourcing and learn to shop in a more
authentic daily market, dealing directly with local artisan
merchants rather than large corporate entities. Addition-
ally, there won't be shopping carts and central check out
stands.
Opposite: The Ferry Plaza Wine Merchant will have a significant presence at
Oxbow Napa with rare local selctions and incredible tasting menus.
"d,<BOW
PUBLIC MARKET
Principals
Steve Carlin is Founder and CEO of Oxbow Public Market
LLC. His background includes 20 years with Oakville
Grocery, a leading Northern California specialty foods
retailer, including 10 years as PresidenVCEO. Steve's
most recent experience was as Project Manager of the
San Francisco Ferry Building Marketplace.
Bart Rhoades is an independent consultant, investor, and
COO of Oxbow Public Market LLC. Through his career he
has been involved in managing and nurturing a number
of successful entrepreneurial ventures, and has headed
nine different companies.
Brendan Kelly is the Director of Development for Oxbow
Public Market LLC. Brendan's experience as an architect,
developer, and construction manager covers major
institutional work, hospitality and retail environments as
well as award -winning residential design.
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You won't leave your artichoke hearts in San Francisco.
BY PETER JARET PHOTOGRAPHY BY BROWN CANNON III
"WHAT IN THE WORLD do you do with sting-
ing nettles?" a young woman in a red hooded
pullover and black jeans asks, holding a bunch
of dangerous -looking greens between thumb
and forefinger.
This unusual question fazes none of her
fellow shoppers.
"Just saute them in olive oil with a little garlic
and a few red pepper flakes," one says, browsing
the offerings at this crowded outdoor market .
stall. "They're wonderful."
"Or simmer them up into a soup," another
adds. "I've even put them in vegetarian lasagna.
Just be careful of the nettles."
It's 9:30 in the morning. Fog still shrouds the
city. But the stalls of San Francisco's Ferry Plaza
Farmers Market are already busy. Shoppers
clutch paper cups of hot coffee and look through
bins overflowing with'the season's bounty:
plump, ripe tomatoes; fat, round pears; fresh
garlic; thick figs; hefty cucumbers; and opulent
heads of cauliflower.
Ferry Plaza is just one of more than 4,300 farm-
ers markets operating around the country, from
the Manchester Downtown Farmers Market in
Manchester, New Hampshire; to Kapiolani Com-
munity College Farmers Market in Honolulu —
and everywhere in between. All of them reflect
the unique character of the places they call
home, from the wild mushrooms and smoked
Pacific salmon on sale at the Portland Farmers
Market, in Oregon to the pine nuts and hot chili
peppers hawked at the Sunset Valley Farmers
Market near Austin, Texas. The best of them sup-
Spirit1107
port local farms and agricultural practices that.
keep soil fertile and water uncontaminated.
What makes Ferry Plaza stand out from the
rest? For starters, where else can you complete
your week's shopping —fruit, vegetables, meat,
fish, cheese, bread, wine, olive oil, and even cut
flowers for the dining room table —while watch-
ing sailboats zigzag across the bay, seagulls
wheel among skyscrapers, and rollerbladers
pirouette down the sidewalk? Where else would
you find a chef and television starsigning his lat-
est book while Alice Waters picks up fresh aru-
gula to put on the menu at Chez Panisse? Where
else would you find a modern-day Garden of
Eden that rose from the rubble of an earth-
quake? And where else, really, would a woman
wondering how to prepare stinging nettles find
ready answers?Lots of places boast terrific farm-
ers markets. But when it comes to abundant
produce, rich atmosphere, celebrity chefs, an
inspiring backstory, and a passion for great food,
Ferry Plaza taps them all. It's the best farmers
fog I Spirit
FOR LOCATION, you couldn't do better than
Ferry Plaza. Arrayed on three sides of the newly
restored Ferry Building, the 80-plus outdoor
stalls that constitute the market look out on
sweeping views of the Bay Bridge as it arches
across white -capped waters to Yerba Buena
Island and then on to Berkeley and Oakland. To
the west, Market Street cuts a diagonal course
into the city, between the skyscrapers of the
financial district and up into the hills of Twin
Peaks. Where an ill -planned and unsightly
elevated highway once stood, the tree -lined
Embarcadero now stretches in front of the Ferry
Building. Vintage streetcars, imported from cit-
ies around the world, trundle along the tracks.
On one corner, a saxplayer riffs on old stan-
dards. Not far down the road, a bluegrass band
picks away. The salty tang of the'breeze carries
the warm smells of fresh -baked bread from Della
Fattoria bakery and the earthy aroma of wild
mushroom omelettes from the Hayes Street Grill
market stall.
With an estimated 30,000 people crowding
into the market on a busy Saturday, locals use
the statue of Gandhi that presides overthe plaza
as a meeting place —a perfect emblem for a city
synonymous with peace and love. These days,
though, hippies have given way to,foodies, and
the Ferry Plaza market has become their mecca.
Unlike farmers markets in regions with short
growing seasons, this one bustles all year. Offer-
ings change with the seasons. Purple -tinged cau-
liflowers appear at one crowded stall. "It's really
just garden-variety cauliflower that sits in the
ground a little longer, so it grows out a bit and
gets that flowery look," explains Joe Schirmer,
who runs Dirty Girl, Produce, a 14-acre farm
in Santa Cruz. "The iron in the soil gives it that
purple color. Beautiful, isn't it?" It is.
A few stalls away, Poll Yerena offers strawber-
ries to shoppers. Yerena Farms in Royal Oaks,
California, grows five varieties, as well as rasp-
berries, blackberries, and both red and black
currants.In summer, they feature a -variation
called a tayberry, a cross between a blackberry
and a raspberry. "People wait all year just to
taste it;' Yerena says. I sample a fruit so new
that it still doesn't have an official name. Yerena
calls it a candy strawberry because of its sugary
sweetness. Tasting it, I imagine serving a bowlful
with a generous dollop of tangy cream cheese.
Finding that cheese isn't hard. The nearby
Spring Hill Jersey Cheese booth offers a wealth
of locally produced varieties, including jack,
cheddar, ricotta, and several unusual specialty
cheeses. The butter on sale, churned the day
before, uses cream from Jersey cows. The breed
doesn't yield as much milk as the common Hol.
stein, but what they produce possesses about
25 percent more milk fat than their rivals do.
But enough about food —for the moment, The
Feny Plaza also excels in atmosphere, provid-
ing the perfect place to grab a cup of coffee at
Blue Bottle Coffee Co., browse the aisles at the
Book Passage in the Ferry Building, and Ifsten
to wandering minstrels. Many of the shoppers
here push wheeled carts called Hook n-Gos,
designed with rows of hooks for hanging bags
of produce. To save landfills from an inundation
of plastic bags, the nonprofit group that runs the
market, the Center for Urban Education About
Sustainable Agriculture, plans to encourage ven-
dors and shoppers to use alternatives.
This thriving foodie scene sprang up after
one of the darkest moments in the history of the
city. When the 1989 Loma Prieta earthquake hit,
it halted the World Series, damaged the Ferry
Building, toppled houses, and collapsed high-
ways and sections of the Bay Bridge. At exactly
5:04—the moment the quake hit —the clock
in the building's prominent tower stopped. For
almost a decade the clock remained frozen at
that time while the facility underwent repairs,
an unsettling reminder of the city's precarious
perch near the San Andreas Fault. Now the clock
keeps time again, presiding over the restored
building and the transformed neighborhood
around it.
But the real reason the Ferry Plaza stands
apart, as the professional chefs and serious food-
fes who frequent it each Tuesday and Saturday
will tell you, is the larger locale it inhabits. The
BayArea includes an agricultural region of
unparalleled diversity, blessed with a mild Medi-
terranean climate that allows local farmers to
bring fresh fruit and vegetables to market all year
round, To the east and south lie the sun -struck
fields of the Central Valley, famous for nuts,
garlic, and artichokes. Up north, cows and goats
graze the rolling pasturelands of Marin County.
The cool ocean breezes there create conditions
ideal for raising leafy green vegetables and pint
noirgrapes. Nearby Tomales Bay produces some
of the most succulent oysters anywhere, while
the fishermen of Bodega Bay, a little farther
north, haul in generous harvests of salmon and
Dungeness crab. Inland, the valleys of Sonoma,
Napa, and Sacramento get hot summer days
and cool nights, the best combination for grow.
ing some of the world's finest grapes, as well as
tomatoes, squash, kale, beans, peas, cauliflower,
apples, pears, and figs. "California grows some
350 crops, and multiple varieties of those many
crops," says Gail Feenstra, an analyst with the
Sustainable Agriculture Research and Education
Program at the University of California, Davis.
"That allows the Ferry Plaza Farmers Market to
draw on an exceptional diversity of produce."
Brandon Ross of Ella Bella Farms in Corralitos
agrees. 1 can almost guarantee you that you'll
find some things you've never tasted before," he
says. Byway of example, he offers me an Early
Girl tomato.
Early Girls I know, I tell him smugly. I've grown
them myself.
"Not like these," he says with a grin. The
microclimate of Ella Bella's 16 acres offers hot
days and foggy nights, ideal for growing toma-
toes without irrigation, a method called dry
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farming. "The heat lets the tomatoes ripen," Ross
says. "The moist, cool evenings give the plants
a chance to recover." Like grapevines, tomatoes
send taproots deep into the soil to find water,
sometimes as far as 30 feet down. Dry -farmed
plants produce fewer tomatoes, but the lower
yield concentrates the flavor.
I'll say. The taste, earthy and acidic, makes my
eyes water. I'm lucky I arrived early. Ross says
the Early Girls will sell out by noon.
Many items won't last that long. Top chefs
in this restaurant -rich city hit themarket early,
prowling the stalls to see what's fresh, talking to
growers and filling up their carts with the black-
berries, dinosaur kale, crane melon, and fresh
mozzarella they'll serve that evening.
"1'm a regular, Tuesdays and Saturdays," says
Annie Somerville. "I wouldn't miss it for the
world." Somerville is executive chef at Greens,
the fabled restaurant In San Francisco that pio-
neered haute vegetarian food. "The Ferry Plaza
market is my source for what we'll be cooking
during the week at Greens. Its also a place for
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exchanging ideas. 'What are you doing with
thisT 'How do you prepare that?' There are a
lot of professional chefs, but there arealso a lot
of just plain fantastic home cooks, people who
really know food and love food. There are plenty
of times 1 go back to the kitchen,at Greens to try
something I've heard about at the market:'
THE SUCCESS of San -Francisco's Ferry Plaza
epitomizes a nationally improving palate. Never
before have Americans enjoyed such a wide
choice of food —or been so obsessed with what
we eat. Bookstores are crowded with volumes
on the subject, from Michael Pollan's In Defense
of Food: An Eater's Manifesto (Penguin Press)
to Barbara Kingsolver's charming account of
her family's attempt to raise everything they put
on the table, called Animal, Vegetable, Miracle
(HarpeiCollins). Many of the country's leading
food writers and top nutritionists urge shoppers
to leave the grocery store and head to the farm-
ers market whenever they can. Why?
Freshness, variety, and taste, for starters. At
most local markets, growers pick their produce
the afternoon before they sell it, making it far
fresher than most anything on sale at grocery
stores. Truly fresh produce tastes better and
stays fresher longer. Fresh produce also packs
more nutrition. Then there's diversity. Farmers'
markets typically feature heirloom varieties—
cultivars of tomatoes, potatoes, apples, pears,
and other produce that suit growing conditions
in specific regions. A century ago, more than
100 types of apples and nearly as many kinds
of tomatoes grew around the United States.
Many of these varieties all but disappeared from
markets as large-scale farmers settled on two or
three types that had the virtues of being easy to
grow and ship. Small farmers, because theysell
locally, can ignore shipability. They can choose
varieties that taste great.
But tastiness isn't everything. Many Ferry Pla-
za shoppers want to know exactly how the food
they buy is grown or raised, and the vendors
try to fill them in. Take David Evans. The fourth
generation California rancher raises cattle,
sheep, goats, and chickens at Marin Sun Farms
north of the Golden Gate Bridge. He gives none
of his animals hormones and allows all of them
to range freely. Customers say the taste of his
grass-fed beef Is beyond compare. Just as impor-
tant, they can trust that Evans treatshis livestock
humanely. And if they have any doubts, they can
4
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n41 Spirit
come up to the ranch and see for themselves.
Like many of the vendors at the Ferry Plaza mar-
ket, Evans welcomes visitors. "That's important
to us," he says. "When people come out to the
ranch, they can see firsthand that they're also
helping to preserve an agricultural heritage:'
Shoppers don t have to leave the market to get
the inside story. Almost every stand here posts
a placard about the farm or ranch, its staff, the
type of soil, the climate, and the growing meth-
ods. Curious to know about the soil that pro-
duces Knoll Farms' exceptionally peppery and
tender arugula? Its all there. (if you must know,
the soil is clay, with a rich blend of raw and com-
posted organic matter, cover crops, crop stubble,
and some earthworm castings thrown in for
good measure) The group that runs the market
also sponsors lectures about sustainable agri-
culture, hosts cookbook signings at the'Saturday
market, sponsors farm tours, and recently added
cooking classes to its roster of events. Not all
customers care to dig quite that deep, of course.
The farmers don't mind.
WT
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in
fact, markets like this one keep many small ,
farms in business. The number of American 1
farmers markets grew by more than 50 percent 1
over the past decade, to a total of 4,385 in 2006, i •9
the most recent year data was available. These ;I
markets typically help farms that make less than
$250,000 a year, according to the U.S. Depart-
ment of Agriculture.
Ella Bella'S Brandon Ross certainly feels grate-
ful. He can sell wholesale quantities of the farms
produce here at retail prices, making 80 cents .;
on the dollar rather than the 20 cents he might ,
earn selling to grocery chains and allowing him
to.pay his workers more. For Ross, who studied
sustainable agriculture at the University of Cali-
fornia, Ella Bella is a complete package: "1 went
into farming to meld those two worlds, to give
farm workers a fairwage and a healthy working -r
environment, and to protect the land and the
heritage of small farms like ours. We couldn't do x
that without the Ferry Plaza market."
LIKE THE BEST farmers markets everywhere,
Ferry Plaza gets people excited about food. At
once a living laboratory for finer dining and a
case study in market economics, this mat ket-
place manages to remain something less exalted
but just as important: a delightful place to shop,
meet up with old friends, sample a new taste
treat, listen to live music, watch the fog lift and
the sun sparkle on the bay —in short, to pause
and appreciate the best that life has to offer.
After an hour of puttering among the stalls,
sampling a fresh strawberry here and a local
cheese there, San Franciscan Mary McSweeney
picks up a Hook-n-Go so overburdened that it
calls to mind apack mule. "I'm originally from a
small community in Ireland:' she says. "For me,
this market is a little like that. It's a little village
in the middle of a big city, where you know the
shopkeepers and they know you, where people
exchange news about their families and the lat-
est recipes." As McSweeney turns to go home, a
rollerblader clutching a bouquet of fresh flowers
shoots past, amearby sax player launches into a
new song, and a ferry toots its horn. McSweeney
glances around at the hubbub. "This:' she says
with a smile, "is my grocery store:'
PeterJoret writes about food, nutrition, and health for
The New York Times, Martha Stewart Living, and other
publications. He tends a patch offigs, greens, and snap
peas in northern California.
LIKE THE BEST farmers markets everywhere,
Ferry Plaza gets people excited about food. At
once a living laboratory for finer dining and a
case study in market economics, this mat ket-
place manages to remain something less exalted
but just as important: a delightful place to shop,
meet up with old friends, sample a new taste
treat, listen to live music, watch the fog lift and
the sun sparkle on the bay —in short, to pause
and appreciate the best that life has to offer.
After an hour of puttering among the stalls,
sampling a fresh strawberry here and a local
cheese there, San Franciscan Mary McSweeney
picks up a Hook-n-Go so overburdened that it
calls to mind apack mule. "I'm originally from a
small community in Ireland:' she says. "For me,
this market is a little like that. It's a little village
in the middle of a big city, where you know the
shopkeepers and they know you, where people
exchange news about their families and the lat-
est recipes." As McSweeney turns to go home, a
rollerblader clutching a bouquet of fresh flowers
shoots past, amearby sax player launches into a
new song, and a ferry toots its horn. McSweeney
glances around at the hubbub. "This:' she says
with a smile, "is my grocery store:'
PeterJoret writes about food, nutrition, and health for
The New York Times, Martha Stewart Living, and other
publications. He tends a patch offigs, greens, and snap
peas in northern California.